Category Archives: Design trends

Design trends

The Power of Nature

Although not a mangrove or salt marsh, this Ginkgo, one of the oldest living tree species in the world, does its best to absorb CO2 from the environment.

We live close to some outstanding research facilities. NASA Ames Research Center in Mountain View had a role in the development of the Webb telescope that launched earlier this year. Stanford University is on the cutting edge of many medical advancements. Lawrence Berkeley and Lawrence Livermore National Laboratories are front and center of many studies that affect our daily lives.

When I was a kid my father used to work at the Lawrence Berkeley Lab. As a welder during the 1950’s I remember him telling me about working on the Bevatron which was the state of the art particle accelerator being built there. The goal of Berkeley Lab has always been to bring science solutions to the world.

Their newsletter, now published online, reported the results several years ago of a study about the increased rate that the earth’s vegetation is absorbing human-induced CO2. Never underestimate the power of nature – especially that of plants.

A new study published in this month’s Berkeley Lab newsletter, has found that plants, especially sea grasses, mangroves and salt marshes, are grabbing more carbon from the air than in previous decades. The study is based on extensive ground and atmospheric observations, satellite measurements of vegetation and computer modeling. They are even better than forests and can continue to do so for millions of years. The carbon found in coastal soil is often thousands of years old.

“To be clear, human activity continues to emit increasing amounts of carbon”, the study explains but plants have slowed the rate of increase in the atmosphere by absorbing more. “It’s a kind of snowball effect: as the carbon levels rise in the atmosphere, photosynthesis activity flourishes and plant take in more carbon, sparking more plant growth, more photosynthesis and more carbon uptake.”

Another player was identified in the study. Plant respiration, a process in which plants use oxygen and produce CO2, did not increase as quickly as photosynthesis in recent years. This is because plant respiration is sensitive to temperature. The study showed that between 2002 and 2014, plants took in more CO2 through photosynthesis but did not “exhale’ more CO2 into the atmosphere through respiration.

What does this all mean? “This highlights the need to identify and protect ecosystems where the carbon sink is growing rapidly,” says Trevor Keenan, a research scientist and author of the paper. “Unfortunately, this increase in the carbon sink is nowhere near enough to stop climate change. We don’t know where the carbon sink is increasing the most, how long this increase will last, or what it means for the future of Earth’s climate.”

Still I’m hopeful that the earth will heal itself if given the chance and we can thank plants including the humble houseplant for helping offset increasing levels of CO2 from fossil fuel emissions.

Berkeley Lab is at the forefront of research in the world of science. They continue to share information about how plants transport water from their roots up through the stem and how they respond to stress such as drought. The new data will provide insight about how to better tend crops and other plants under stress and to improved understanding and forecasting for drought-related die-offs of trees and other plant species.

Several years ago during the Ebola outbreak, Berkeley Lab was one of the research facilities searching for a cure. Rather than using human or lab animals, a crystal isolated from the cells of a broccoli related plant called mouse-ear cress, provided the target related protein. Researchers have used this plant as a model species for studying cell activities and genetics since the mid-1940’s and in 2000 this plant’s genome was the very first plant genome to be sequenced. Quite an honor for another humble plant.

The current Department of Energy Lawrence Berkeley Lab newsletter reported that the site of the former Bevatron, that operated from 1954 to 1993, has been designated a historic site by the American Physical Society for its exemplary contributions to physics. Dad would be proud to have been a part at its inception.

The current issue of the newsletter features a study conducted along with Michigan State University and the University of Southern Bohemia (yes, that’s a real place) about microbial photosynthesis. According to the article this info could help researchers remediate harmful algal blooms and develop artificial photosynthesis systems for renewable energy among other awesome applications. Check out the Berkeley lab newsletter online if you’re into browsing the internet like me. https://newscenter.lbl.gov/

Design trends

What to do in the Garden in September

Divide overcrowded perennials like bleeding heart over the next few months.

And just like that…summer is nearly over. We’ll get to enjoy our Indian summer for the next couple of months so I really I can’t complain. And I did fertilize my blooming plants this morning so I’m feeling pretty good about myself. Now if I only had more space to garden. Can I borrow some of yours? Here are some of the other garden chores to put on your to-do list for September.

It’s still a little hot to plant cool season veggies starts in the ground. They appreciate conditions later in September when the soil is still warm but temps have cooled. It is OK to plant seeds of beets, carrots, spinach, arugula, mustard, leeks, onions, peas, radishes and turnips.

Fertilize shrubs lightly one last time if you haven’t already done so last month. All shrubs, especially broad-leaved evergreens such as rhododendron, pieris, camellia, hebe, need to calm down, stop growing and harden off to get ready for the winter cold. Some plants have already set next year’s buds.

Roses especially appreciate a bit of fertilizer now, encouraging them to bloom another round in October. To keep them blooming make a habit of pinching and pruning off old flowers. Always cut back to an outward facing branchlet with five leaves. There are hormones there that will cause a new rose to grow much sooner than if you cut to one with only three leaves. You can always cut lower on the stem if you need to control height.

Deadhead flowering annuals and perennials as often as you possibly can. Annuals like zinnias, calibrachoa and cosmos will stop blooming if you allow them to go to seed. The same is true of repeat blooming perennials like dahlia, scabiosa, echinacea and lantana. Santa Barbara daisies will bloom late into winter if cut back now. I know a gardener who cuts back her Santa Barbara daisies 3 times per year and they seem to always be in bloom and look fresh.

These plants know they’re on this earth to reproduce. If they get a chance to set seed the show’s over, they’ve raised their family. Try to remove fading flowers regularly and you’ll be amply rewarded. If you want to start perennial flowers from seeds this is the time so that they’ll be mature enough to bloom next year.

Now through October, divide summer blooming perennials like agapanthus, coreopsis, daylily and penstemon that are overgrown and not flowering well. You can also divide spring blooming perennials like candytuft, columbine, astilbe, bergenia and bleeding heart but sometimes they don’t bloom the first spring afterwards due to the energy they use re-establishing themselves.

Another thing to do while out in the garden this month is to cut back berries vines that have produced fruit. Canes of the current season should be trained in their place.

It’s never too soon to start planning for erosion control in those areas that caused you problems during last December’s storms. You remember that lovely rain we had in October and then in December before the spigot was turned off early for the season? I used to recommend planting mid-september on but our climate is much hotter than it used to be so think October and November as the prime months to plant for erosion control.

Design trends

The Sound of Music in the Garden

Japanese Forest Grass provides a soft rustling sound in the garden. It’s pet friendly and both cats and dogs enjoy nibbling on the foliage.

If you’re like me you hear different things when you are outside. I hear the buzz of hummingbird wings and their little chirp up in the trees waiting to defend their feeder. They bring a smile to my face. Sometimes it’s the silence that gets my attention. Where are the chickadees or pygmy nuthatches or the raucous scolding of the jays? Where is the wind, the rustling of the forest grass leaves? Other times the quaking of the redwood boughs a hundred feet up makes the garden come alive like giant wind chimes. Sound adds dimension to the garden.

I consider the music of the garden as well as plants and people when developing a design. I’m talking about how water, wind and wildlife play a big role in the music of a garden. Even the crunching sound as you walk on a gravel path brings your garden to life.

The sound of moving water in the garden not only attracts birds but soothes the soul. It can drown out unwanted neighborhood noise or sound as subtle as a violin. I enjoyed a table top fountain with a bamboo deer scare for many years until the raccoons discovered it. The sound was incredibly soothing on a hot day. Pondless waterfalls are easier to maintain if you aren’t interested in fish or water plants. Small recirculating garden fountains can be placed on your deck or patio or tucked into garden beds. Urn and jar fountains offer a hint of bubbling water and the soothing sound of flowing water to your landscape.

I use to have a different wind chime at each corner of my house. You can tell the direction of the wind, the intensity, even potential changes in the weather just by listening to the chimes. There are bamboo chimes available that produce a peaceful relaxing sound or musically tuned metal tubes or those made of wood or shells. Enhance the wind with these lulling sounds.

The wind is different in each season. Summer breezes cool you and also catch on a billowy plant to bring not just sound but movement. Ornamental grasses are the stars of the garden when the wind rustles through the leaves and seed heads. My Japanese Forest Grass is one of my favorites. Loose shrubs like butterfly bush, hydrangea, spirea, spice bush and bush anemone also sway in the wind and bring sound to the garden. Allow a larger plant like Japanese maple to spill into the path where you will brush against it slightly to create that sound you hear in the forest when you walk. Enjoy the rattle of seeds in pods like those of iris as they dry during the summer.

The sounds of wildlife are my favorites in the garden. Any type of pond or waterfall with some plants growing in or adjacent will attract tree frogs. Buzzing insects collect nectar and pollinate flowers. My simple birdbath is a magnet for robins, spotted towhees, chickadees, warblers, kinglets, purple finches and jays. The rest of their time they are performing expert insect control elsewhere in my garden .Hummingbirds are frequent visitors as they fight for territory and feed on spiders and nectar rich flowers.

Allow your garden to make music.

Design trends

Hardy Geraniums in the Garden

Hardy geraniums are easy to care for and make lovely ground covers.

Last fall my neighbor planted the slope in front of their house with hardy geraniums- lots of them. Over the winter they were looking a bit scraggly and I was worried that maybe they had chosen the wrong ground cover for their situation. But no, come last spring their rich blue geranium ‘Rozanne’ burst into bloom and it’s a site to behold.

Most people use the common name geranium to describe what is actually a pelargonium. Ivy geraniums, Martha Washington pelargoniums and zonal geraniums are all pelargoniums. Hardy geraniums, also called cranesbill, look very different. Leaves are roundish or kidney-shaped and usually lobed or deeply cut. Flower colors include beautiful blue, purple, magenta, pink or white and often completely cover the plant with color. I’ll bet if you visited a garden on a tour or admired a picture in a garden magazine it contained true geraniums. Here are just a few strong performers available among the dozens of species.

Geranium maderense grows best in shade. This dramatic native of Madeira is the largest geranium with huge 1-2 foot long leaves shaped like giant snowflakes. Clusters of thousands of rose tinted flowers form on a 3 foot trunk. This perennial is short-lived but self sows freely. Add some of these architectural plants to your border for color and structure.

Blue flowers in the garden are always a hit as they combine so well with other colors. Geranium Orion‘s abundant clear blue flower clusters bloom over a long season. Use this 2 foot spreading plant in sun or part shade in a mixed border or as a groundcover. There are other blue flowering geraniums. I grow geranium ‘Brookside’ on my own garden. It’s on the second round of blooms. It’s large bright blue flowers are larger than ‘Johnson’s Blue’. ‘Rozanne’ is another common favorite with stunning blue flowers.

Looking for a fast growing variety? Geranium incanum which covers itself spring through fall with rosy violet flowers, fits the bill. Cut back every 2-3 years to keep neat. This variety endures heat and drought better than other types but needs some summer water. It self seed profusely which might be exactly what you want for a groundcover in a problem area.

Geranium Biokova

If pale pink is your color, plant geranium x cantabrigiense ’Biokova’. This excellent groundcover spreads slowly. The numerous one inch flowers are long lasting and cover the plant from late spring to early summer. Their soft pink color is indispensable when tying together stronger colors in the border and the lacy foliage is slightly scented.

Another geranium in the same family is ‘Karmina’. I’ve been growing this dark pink flowering variety for several years. With lush green leaves on a low spreading plant it’s pretty even when not in bloom.

There are a couple other varieties that are popular and deserve a try. They are Award Winning ‘Mavis Simpson’ and ‘Russell Pritchard’. Both have bright pink or purple flowers and make good additions to your perennials.

Give the hardy geranium a place in your garden.

Design trends

Planting Under Trees

Be careful when planting under dogwood

Many of us live under oaks or are surrounded by redwoods. We know the value of trees in the landscape. Trees shade us in the summer. We anticipate their showy blossoms in the spring and enjoy their beautiful colorful foliage in the fall. You can hang a hammock between two of them or tie a rope swing for the kids from a large branch. Trees are our companions, but how can you create a garden under one of them?

Planting under a mature tree can be a challenge. You need to avoid damaging their roots and your new plants will need to cope with dry soil, shade, root competition and ever-changing moisture and light conditions. You want both your new plants and your tree to thrive.

Meet your tree’s needs first. Some trees are more agreeable than others about giving up some of their ground. You can still plant beneath trees that are sensitive to having their roots disturbed but you’ll need to make a few concessions. When purchasing plants to grow under trees, think small. Small plants require a smaller planting hole and this will minimize disturbance to the roots. You may have to buy more plants but you’ll have an easier time tucking them among the roots.

Don’t alter the grade of the soil around a tree or change the soil pH very much. Even adding a layer of soil that is more than 2 inches deep can reduce the amount of moisture and oxygen available to the tree and hinder gas exchange to existing roots, causing trees to suffer or even die.

Only the toughest plants have a chance of surviving among the surface roots of shallow rooted trees. Be careful when disturbing sugar maples, elms. cherries and plums, dogwoods, magnolias, pines and oaks. The majority of a tree roots are small woody roots and fine hair roots that grow within the upper 12-18 inches of soil and extend far beyond the trees drip line. These roots are responsible for absorbing water and nutrients from the soil.

If you encounter a root larger than 1 1/2 – 2 inches in diameter while digging a hole for a plant, move the planting hole a few inches away to avoid slicing through the root. You will sever mats of small tree roots when digging, but they’ll regenerate fairly quickly.

To avoid wounding the bark, which may cause insect and disease problems, start planting at least 12 inches away from the trunk. Oaks shouldn’t have any plantings closer than 6-10 feet from the trunk and those should be drought tolerant. After planting, water to settle the soil and spread 2-3 inches of mulch to conserve moisture and keep weeds down. Be sure to keep mulch at least 12 inches away from the base of the tree. Mulch can hold moisture against a tree’s bark and cause rot and disease.

A Forest Pansy redbud in fall color.

Trees that will tolerate some disturbance to the root zone include Eastern redbuds, both the green-leafed and the purple- leafed species, and red maples which are also a good lawn tree. Common trees that are easy going about plantings underneath are crabapple, ginkgo, hawthorn, honey locust, poplar, silver maple and willows.

So what plants will transform your bare patch of hard earth and knobby roots into a shady nook? If you’re going for a lush look, consider hostas and ferns, paired with the hardy geraniums like Biokova. Other good companions are astilbes with their feathery flower plumes and variegated euonymus fortunei with bergenia or digitalis mertonensis with liriope, lamium, vinca minor, hellebore or brunnera.

Trees with branches limbed high look good with small shrubs planted underneath. Red-leaf barberry can brighten up this spot and also provide fall color. Small nandinas like Harbor Dwarf make a good ground cover and their foliage takes on an orange-red color in winter. Fragrant sarcococca grows well in this situation, too.

Low groundcovers make a simple statement under the crown of a tree. Ajuga, pachysandra and sweet woodruff all grow well here. Or you might like the look of the shade tolerant grass-like plant like carex morrowii ‘Evergold’. This stunning sedge makes a beautiful clump 1-2 feet high and 2-3 feet wide with dark green leaves and a central band of creamy white.

You can have a beautiful garden under a mature tree by following these tips.

Design trends

How & When to Espalier Plants

This local star jasmine has been trained in the formal
Belgian Fence style

Over the years I’ve visited many gardens and been asked for advice on how to deal with a narrow space. We all have ‘em. Sometimes it’s that area between the garage and the fence. Or maybe the neighbor’s deck overlooks your patio but there’s not room to plant a hedge. Or maybe you want to break up your garden with a graceful screen that doesn’t take up too much space. Whether you have an edible in mind that would look great in that space or want an ornamental plant to bring some color, flowers, birds & butterflies, there are lots of choices for shrubs to train as an espalier no matter what your growing conditions are.

I’ve read that the practice of espalier originated in Medieval times when residents of warring cities planted trees inside their walled cities. The Roman and Egyptians are also said to have trained fruit bearing plants like fig, apple, pear and citrus in their gardens but it was the Europeans, specifically the French who perfected the designs we see today.

A nicely trained apple.

Dwarf pear and apple trees are pretty easy to train. Both these trees produce thickened spurs which is where the fruit develops so don’t lop them off when you prune. They are easy to see. You’ll need cat least 6 hours of sun a day for them to produce fruit.

Camellia thrive in shade and because they have flexible branches they lend themselves to training. Pyracantha is also forgiving of mistakes for this reason.

Narrow spaces can be challenging. One of my favorite plants that naturally grows flat is grewia occidentals or Lavender Starflower. it grows fast in sun and attracts hummingbirds and other birds. Beautiful lavender flowers cover the plant from spring to fall.

Another plant, azara microphylla, also grows flat without much coaxing on your part. This small dainty tree is fast growing and reaches 15-25 ft tall. The yellow flower clusters will fill your garden with the scent of white chocolate in late winter. They are ideal between structures. I’ve used the variegated version to screen a shower and it’s working great. The chocolate fragrance of this plant is really what makes it a show stopper.

Flowering quince is an old garden staple providing early color. They are easy to care for and nearly indestructible in almost any soil that is well drained and not overly fertile. Once established quince is a very drought tolerant plant and their spiny branches make them an excellent choice for hedges, screening or as a security barrier. There are red, pink, orange and white flowering varieties. The Toyo Nishiki cultivar even has pink, white and solid red flowers all on the same branch.

Another small tree, the Compact Carolina cherry laurel can be espaliered also in a narrow space if needed. It grows 10 ft tall but that may be all you need to screen the neighbor. They are drought tolerant once established, deer resistant and the perfect host for birds, bees and butterflies. The leaves smell like cherries when crushed which gives this plant it’s common name.

Other ornamental shrubs that make great espaliered plants are abutilon, bougainvillea in frost free areas, callistemon, dodonaea, feijoa, gingko, sarcococca, viburnum, ribes, rhaphiolepis, pittosporum tobira and osmanthus fragrans. Trees that can be trained include cercis, agonis flexuosa, eriobotrya, and podocarps.

California native plants that can be espaliered are garrya, fremontodendron. Carolina cherry, flowering currant and ceanothus while the branches are young and supple.

A young fruit tree in training

Don’t be overwhelmed if an espalier gets out of hand during the season. Just nip the branches back to a leaf node. Use heavy jute to attach the branch to the support wire or stake. After a season the jute will rot away which keeps the branch from being girdled by the restraint.